winter 010-011

like the tapestry penelope was embroidering while waiting for ulysses, xavier brisoux's latest collection is a never ending piece of work: made, unmade, remade. from this inner routine echoing the very structure of knitwear itself emerges the notion of an unreachable perfection: because the work is always deconstructed it becomes faltered and damaged, bound to be imperfect by the very wish to make it flawless. this process has inspired the designer into stating that undoing makes sense. ties, braces or cables take shape in ladders; large sweaters are slashed to create unexpected forms and draping. classic wardrobe codes are reinvented with hand-embroideries on rightly called “penelope” canvas. a plastron or elbow patches are tapestry-embroidered onto jumpers. the collection also explores normally woven pieces into knitwear like a jacket or trousers.

these chosen flaws are balanced by a delicate colour palette where the traditional black is softened by subtle blue-greys and hints of pink and sky blues underline refined finishing. the softness is also conveyed through a high quality merino wool knitted in different gauges and in a comfort cashmere for accessories. while mens' wardrobe remains classical based mainly on detailing, womens' silhouettes are creating unforeseen shapes

xavier brisoux's winter is made of the waiting of an undetermined future open to all possibilities. it's the acknowledgment of a work that rewrites itself constantly while keeping the canvas of its own fashion story

winter 010-011

photographer: mathieu drouet
photographer's assistant: vanessa coquelle
models: julien boucher, julie vaincourt
hair and make-up: caroline coupet
xavier brisoux's assistant: sarah lespagnol
concept and graphic design: damien bihr © naosdesign 2010
thanks to olivier langhendries, julie keyaert, céline billon
59000 lille france
+ 33 (0)6 88 71 31 18




  1. His work is really interesting and he obviously takes pain and trouble in aiming for that unreachable perfection. As said the Bouddha << all existence is Dukkha >> or imperfect. This makes me wonder if your “lapsus calami” wasn't deliberate: "peine" in french means pain "ça vaut la peine de la faire" : it's worth taking the trouble (pain) to do it. Is it Penélope or Peinélope? Either way he has certainly gone to great pains to produce some really researched textures and colours. one to watch...


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